Hello Istanbul
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October 2013 we flew into Istanbul, Turkey for an 8 day visit. My husband, expert hotel sleuth, discovered the Hotel Ibrahim Pasha located in the ancient Sultanahmet District. He spends weeks researching small hotels or apartments.
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Every morning the hotel provided a delicious breakfast. Fresh figs, melon, cheeses, yogurt and a variety of fresh Turkish pastries. The only item that resembled a typical American breakfast was the hard boiled eggs.
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The view from our hotel’s rooftop bar; offering views of the Blue Mosque and the Bosphorus Strait.
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The crowded entrance to the lavish Topkapi Palace. Constructed in 1470; as the seat of the Ottoman Empire and home to the ruling Sultans for over 400 years.
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The Harem (forbidden in the Arabic language) was the private living quarters for the Sultan’s extended family of wives, children, concubines and the Queen Mother. A cozy hive of over 300 rooms.
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The Chief Eunuch and his fellow slaves kept watch over the Sultan’s Harem.
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The sleeping quarters, hallways and courtyards are tiled with the famous 16th century Iznik tiles. The cypress trees represent the “tree of life”. A very appropriate location for this symbol.
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If only the tiles could share the four centuries of palace intrigue and secrets.
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Tiles, tiles, tiles!! Topkapi Palace is adorned with these 400 year old tiles. The centuries have only added to their beauty, muting the shiny surfaces and adding a patina that can come only from age and use.
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The tiles get their name (Iznik) from the region in Turkey where they were made. It was recognized as the center for ceramic production because of local deposits of clay.
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The tiles were coated with a thin layer of white slip, painted with pigments of color, and glazed with a lead/tin transparent glaze.
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The bright “sealing wax red” color comes from a slip rich in hematite (iron oxide) applied in a thick layer. Tiles that were predominately red were reserved for the Sultan’s bed chamber.
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Ornate stained glass windows shine light onto the tile walls. These tiles used nature (tulips and other flowers) as themes for their glorious patterns in this gilded cage.
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These mid 16th century tiles represent a ‘high water’ mark in the history of Iznik ceramic production. The Ottomans began importing Chinese porcelain tiles (20,000) for use in the palace. These pots influenced the Iznik craftsmen.
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These tiles show the influence of Chinese ware on the Iznik craftsmen. The tiles are located in the circumcision room.
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Close Up
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The Sultan’s view of the Bosphorus Strait.
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Birds eye view of the Topkapi Palace compound.
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Our guide introduced us to this lovely shop that specialized in contemporary Iznik pottery and tiles. The old tiles are very very expensive while the contemporary tiles are just very expensive. Everything in this shop was beautifully crafted.
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Examples of work carried in this shop.
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The shop owner and I discussing a beautiful tile installation.
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Contemporary Iznik bowl
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16th century Iznik plate from the National Ceramics Museum (Turkish Tile and Ceramics) located on the grounds of the National Archaeological Museum.
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In another shop we watched as a young Turkish potter threw small pots for onlookers.
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An example of the contemporary detailed decorations being applied.
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A view of the Blue Mosque (the name is derived from all of the blue Iznik tile work). Built in 1609 and considered to be one of the most beautiful mosques in all the world.
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The entrance to the outer courtyard of the Blue Mosque.
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Instructions to visitors at the mosque entrance. Pay attention visitors.
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Water taps and basins used for ablution-the ritual of cleansing the body before worship, as directed by Islamic law.
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Everyone removes their shoes and places them in plastic bags before entering the mosque.
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My friend Jenny and I appropriately covered standing in front of a beautiful door.
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Entryway into the mosque.
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Interior of the Blue Mosque. The interior dome is 141’ high and 110’ in diameter. This is one of four giant pillars supporting the dome. There are 260 decorative windows in the mosque.
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The vast indoor space is covered in cascading painted domes.
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Notice there are no images of people or animals anywhere within the mosque. Images of that sort are not allowed in any place of prayer under Islamic law.
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The tile work represents calligraphy, geometric patters, flowers and trees.
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Ceramic workshops continue to make tiles in the Iznik region today but they will need to spend the next 400 years developing that yummy patina that exists on the old tiles.
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The tiles are made from a fritware body consisting of quartz sand, finely ground glass (the frit) and white clay. Potters did not have access to porcelain at that time.
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Easy to see why this is called the Blue Mosque. The name came from the over 20,000 blue Iznik tiles used to decorate the inside of the mosque.
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Note the missing tiles in several portions of the wall decorations.
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Large sections, throughout the mosque, are missing tiles. Years ago work crews were brought into the mosque to clean and restore the tile. Sadly, many of the tiles were stolen and never recovered.
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Our guide introduced us to Khorsani. A wonderful little restaurant a short walk from our hotel.
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Beautiful baked in house bread and Efes beer.
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Fresh herb salad with oregano, mint, celery, green onions, tomato, olive oil and lemon juice. We ate here 4 times both lunch and dinner.
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The food was fresh, delicious and beautiful. A lovely seafood salad loaded with fresh herbs.
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The Giritli restaurant was a ten minute walk from the hotel. Located in an old Ottoman wooden house it specialized in food from the island of Crete, The meal begins with a huge selection of hot and cold appetizers and lots of cold Efes beer followed by perfectly cooked fish.
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Every outdoor dining experience included sharing some of your meal with the local cat population.
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Entrance to the Grand Bazaar. This is one of the oldest markets in the world.
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The Grand Bazaar is both enchanting and perplexing. With over 4,000 shops under one roof all connected by a maze like series of twisting turning hallways.
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A tremendous selection of beautiful fabric.
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Scarves…scarves…scarves
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The shop was filled with beautiful Ikat fabric. I bought several different fabrics and had pillows made when I returned home.
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Embroidered pillow covering
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It would not be Turkey without a trip (or several trips) to the carpet shop.
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79. The number of carpet shops is staggering, and the selection within .
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Antique and reproduction jewelry.
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The Hagia Sophia lies across a lovely park from the Blue Mosque. Built in 532, for over 900 years was the Eastern Vatican.
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When the Ottomans came to power in 1453 Sultan Mehmet converted it to the Royal Mosque. It remained a mosque until the 1930’s when Ataturk turned it into a museum.
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The large leather wrapped wooden disks are the ornately written names of Allah, Muhammad and other prominent Muslim figures.
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Hagia Sophia is undergoing extensive renovation and restoration.
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During the centuries it was used as a mosque many of the original mosaics and frescoes depicting people were covered over with plaster and white wash.
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The columns were installed as whole pieces of stone and then carved in place by craftsmen.
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Another carved stone capital.
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An example of the Muslim decorations used to cover original Christian decorations.
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Look carefully and you will see the traces of Christian iconography adapted by the Muslims.
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Due to the immense weight of the dome many of the columns had begun to collapse. Exterior buttresses have been installed over the centuries and the collapse has been halted.
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As you can see the Hagia Sophia has sustained some water damage over the years and that is being repaired as well.
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Close up of one of the archways covered in mosaic tile.
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My favorite pastry/coffee shop in the city. I just love the graphic of the rooster!!!
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Wonderful way to end each day.
